What Are Phytoceramides? And Skin-identical Ceramides? Same-Same, or Different?

What are Ceramides?

Ceramides are lipids; a class of fatty, waxy, or oily compounds that are insoluble in water. Ceramides of different types are widely found in (and extracted from) plant sources. Or they can be synthesised chemically.

Regardless of their origin, all have a common basic structure combining a pair of chemical building blocks: a fatty acid + a sphingoid base. There are lots of different fatty acids and sphingoid base options, meaning hundreds of different combinations of the two are possible. Each combination has its own unique 3-dimensional shape and size, which is important (as we'll see later on).

Ceramides in the skin

Ceramides are naturally present and abundantly synthesised in the body, especially in skin, making up about 50% of the epidermis (the outer layer of skin). Together with other lipids, they're important components of the stratum corneum, its very outermost layer.

Think of the stratum corneum as a brick wall: the skin cells are the bricks, while ceramides (along with other fatty acids and cholesterol) are the mortar that fills the spaces in between and holds the bricks together. As a protective barrier, they form a first line of defence against external and environmental factors, and an effective skin moisture barrier to reduce trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep skin hydrated.

Despite being so abundant, only 12 different types of ceramides are made and found naturally in human skin, performing a range of functions. In addition to helping maintain hydration levels and target dry skin, they improve skin texture and overall skin appearance. The three most common ceramides are:

• Ceramide 1, aka Ceramide EOS.

• Ceramide 3, aka Ceramide NP.

• Ceramide 6-II, aka Ceramide AP.

Ceramides 1 and 3 are both involved in skin moisture barrier function and work synergistically together in this regard.

What happens as we age?

As part of the natural ageing process, the skin's natural ceramide production slows and ceramide levels drop. When ceramides are depleted, the 'mortar' develops holes, impairing skin function and making it easier for irritants to enter and water to escape. This weakens the protective moisture barrier, leading to further moisture loss, dry skin, wrinkles, and sensitivity.

Reduced levels of some ceramides have also been associated with common skin conditions.

Which brings us to the use of ceramide-containing skincare products to augment ceramide depletion.

Using Products Containing Ceramides

Using skincare products that contain ceramides (especially the specific ones found naturally in skin) can prevent levels from dropping despite reduced ceramide production in the skin, and counteract a compromised skin moisture barrier. This has a range of potential benefits for skin, including improved skin hydration, reducing the visible signs of ageing, and reducing skin sensitivity.

Skin-identical Ceramides, or 'Not all ceramides are the same'

When it comes to ceramide augmentation, not all ceramides are the same. Think of them as jigsaw pieces. They need to be the right shape and size, and oriented correctly, to properly fill the gap in the stratum corneum where they belong.

'Skin-identical' ceramides have exactly the same structure and orientation as ceramides found naturally in your skin, enabling them to properly fill in the gaps. Other ceramides might be similar in structure but not identical, and so don't fill the holes in the stratum corneum as effectively, or not at all.

All CeraVe products contain the skin-identical Ceramides 1, 3 and 6-II.

OK, So What Are Phytoceramides?

Another way ceramides can be classified is based on their origin. The prefix 'Phyto-' comes from the Greek phytón, meaning 'plant', so it follows that phytoceramides are plant rather than animal (or synthetic) in origin. Phytoceramides are usually derived from cereal plants like wheat, corn, oats and rice, whereas synthetic ceramides are entirely chemically manufactured. Ceramides derived from animal origin aren't generally used in skincare formulations, for a variety of reasons.

Are Phytoceramides and Skin-identical Ceramides The Same?

Sometimes, but not always! Phytoceramides are simply plant derived, and are often (but not necessarily) skin-identical. Skin-identical ceramides can also be made synthetically. If in your quest for a more youthful appearance you prefer to use products containing natural ceramides only, then phytoceramides will be your go-to. It will usually tell you on the label if they come from natural origin.

Are Phytoceramides safer to use than synthetic ceramides?

Ceramides are produced abundantly by the body. Skin-identical ceramides in skincare products should be safe to use once or twice daily to strengthen the skin’s protective lipid layer, and regardless of whether they are phytoceramides or synthetic.

Can Phytoceramides irritate skin?

With any newly introduced ingredient, your skin may go through an adjustment period, This is just as true when you first start using ceramides, even phytoceramides. However, they tend not to be as irritating as other ingredients. If a formula containing phytoceramides continues to cause skin irritation after use, CeraVe recommends you consult a healthcare professional.