What Are Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives?

What Are Humectants?

In skincare terms, humectants are powerful skin hydrators that draw water into the surface layers of the skin. That might be drawn from the atmosphere, from surface water on the skin (e.g. after washing), or even pulling moisture from the skin's deeper layers. Humectants are important in skincare products because they help replace lost moisture. Products containing humectants can improve the appearance of rough, dehydrated skin by helping it appear more plump, supple, and youthful-looking. Many humectant moisturisers also contain emollients to help soften and smooth your skin (more on that ahead).

Some examples of humectants

Hyaluronic acid

One of the most popular and well-known humectants is hyaluronic acid. In fact, it's a bit of a hydration hero, with an ability to bind to over 1,000 times its own weight in water. Found naturally in your skin, it plays a key role in keeping your skin looking plump, hydrated, and smooth. Because the amount of hyaluronic acid made and found in your skin declines with age, it's found in many skincare products designed to target ageing.

Find It In: This lightweight, versatile humectant is included in many CeraVe hydrating products, such as CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, a refreshing gel-cream facial serum that can be used daily for instantly smoother, softer skin.

Glycerin

Another widely-used humectant example is glycerin (sometimes known as glycerine or glycerol). It can be vegetable, animal, or synthetically-derived. In addition to its hydration function, glycerin also fortifies and strengthens the skin moisture barrier, and shields against environmental skin aggressors, while improving texture and enhancing the penetration of other key skincare products such as serums.

Glycerin is non-comedogenic (meaning it doesn't block pores), non-allergenic, and suitable for all skin types, making it a beneficial addition to all skincare routines. This includes suitability for mild eczema- and acne-prone skin.

Find It In: Several CeraVe products contain glycerin, including CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion with broad-spectrum SPF15 sunscreen and CeraVe PM Facial Moisturising Lotion, which also contains niacinamide.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Alpha-hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid and lactic acid) are best-known as chemical exfoliants used to help remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. What many people don't realise is that AHAs are also humectants!

Find It In: AHAs are a key ingredient in CeraVe Blemish Control Gel, our daily-use blemish treatment containing a blend of both lactic and glycolic acids (as well as salicylic acid). You can also find lactic acid in CeraVe SA Cream for Rough and Bumpy Skin, a smoothing cream that also contains salicylic acid to help improve skin texture.

 

What Are Occlusives?

Occlusive ingredients don't contribute hydration to the skin, but instead work by forming a protective barrier over the top to help reduce evaporation. This helps keep skin hydrated for longer and help prevent dryness.

Compared to ones containing humectants only, occlusive moisturisers tend to have a thicker texture.As we discussed above, humectants help attract and bind water into your skin—but that's only part of the moisturising story...

It's just as important to seal the moisture into hydrated skin, to prevent it evaporating from the skin's surface (a process known as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL). And that's where occlusives come in.

 

Occlusive ingredient example

Petrolatum

One of the most common (and effective) occlusive ingredients in skincare is petrolatum (most commonly known as petroleum jelly). It's non-comedogenic and compatible with all skin types, often used to help soothe and protect extremely dry or sensitive skin on the face and body, especially dry 'winter' skin.

Find It In: Advanced Repair Balm which hydrates, soothes, and protects dry, rough skin. And rich Moisturising Cream, a fast-absorbing, non-greasy body cream which hydrates and helps strengthen and maintain the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Suitable for sensitive, dry and very dry skin, including on mild eczema-prone skin.

 

What Are Emollients?

Emollients aren't about adding moisture or holding it in, but instead help soften and smooth the skin. They work by filling gaps between skin cells to repair the moisture barrier (think of their function as the mortar filling the gaps between the skin cell 'bricks' in a wall).

Some occlusives (such as petrolatum) and some humectants (like glycerin) also function as emollients.

Some examples of emollients

Ceramides

The family of lipids called ceramides (and skin identical ones in particular) are some of the most effective emollients found in skincare products—and for good reason. They're a key component of the skin's natural moisture barrier, essential for keeping moisture in your skin and harmful irritants out. Although naturally and abundantly produced in skin, production begins to diminish with age, so replenishment is necessary to keep skin feeling soft and smooth.

To learn more about ceramides, visit What are the Benefits of Ceramides for Skin?

Find It In: All CeraVe products contain three essential ceramides, identical to three of the main types of ceramide found naturally in your skin.

Shea butter

Shea butter is a naturally occurring plant extract with many beneficial nutrients including vitamins A, E and F, triglycerides and plant esters. It's a rich, non-greasy emollient with additional antioxidant, skin softening and skin soothing properties.

Find It In: CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream contains hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and shea butter to provide intense hydration to soften and renew the look of tired skin overnight.

Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer widely used in moisturisers to help condition skin, improving its softness, smoothness, and flexibility. Its silky texture helps creams and moisturisers glide over your skin and is often used as an alternative to petrolatum. Dimethicone is regularly used in lotions, balms, nappy rash creams and hand cream.

Find It In: Reparative Hand Cream, a non-greasy, fast absorbing cream that is deeply moisturising for extremely dry, rough hands, or CeraVe Baby Moisturising Cream, developed with paediatric dermatologists for use on infants and babies with all skin types.

Squalane

Squalane oil is one of the components of your skin’s natural oil (sebum), although as a skincare ingredient it's usually extracted from vegetable sources. It has both emollient and antioxidant benefits, and is also non-comedogenic (won't clog your pores).

Find It In: Try CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser, our lightweight cleansing oil for dry to very dry skin on the face and body. Provides a nourishing touch to sensitive skin, leaving it balanced, soft and smooth, without a trace of tightness.

 

Should You Use a Humectant, Emollient, and Occlusive Together?

Occlusives and humectants certainly make an ideal pairing, working together to pull water in and keep it there, helping to keep your skin properly hydrated.

Although many healthcare professionals recommend including all three in your skincare routine, it's actually about finding the right moisturising product(s) to suit the needs of your skin. This might vary in different areas of your body, or change with the seasons.

Always read the labels closely when choosing a moisturiser for your daily routine—this will tell you whether the product is formulated for your skin type and concerns. For example, oily skin types might benefit best from an oil-free formula. Or, if you struggle with mild eczema-prone or dry, rough skin, a richer balm such as Advanced Repair Balm containing petrolatum may be a better choice.

CeraVe Says: If you have sensitive skin, you may want to opt for a moisturiser that's fragrance-free, allergy-tested, and developed with dermatologists—such as the CeraVe range of gentle yet effective formulas for sensitive skin.

For help choosing the right products to suit your specific skin type and concerns, take the CeraVe Skincare Quiz.